Tuesday 09:58 pm : Eleven Madison Park
Sunday night Sam and I had dinner with four of his Yale buddies at
Eleven Madison Park.
First off, let me tell you that I had an absolutely fantastic night. The meal was quite wonderful, but an array of things made it a really lovely experience. For one thing, I felt really pretty. I was wearing my new green shoes, which I find absolutely stunning, with an otherwise all-black outfit, and I just felt good about it. For another thing, the guys were all great fun, and what girl doesn't enjoy being the only woman amongst five men at a table? It was a wholly satisfying evening and well worth every penny (many thousands) and every minute (more than two hundred fifty).
Now, on to the menu... The table did the tasting menu, which is why the meal exceeded four hours. It started auspiciously, with wonderfully charming hors d'oeuvres and itty-bitty cheesy popovers, munched on during an absurdly and amusingly long discussion about wine choices. (I was pretty disengaged from
that debate, so I was busily focusing on my amuses bouche.)
Hors d'oeuvresGraham crackers with foie gras; sweetbreads cones; tuna tartare; and a tiny savory macaroonLike I said, these were quite a nice start to the meal. The accompanying popoverlettes were an unexpected surprise, and a nice bready counterpoint to the delicate, fancy-pants hors d'oeuvres, without forcing me to actually eat bread. (Little known fact about Alissa: I don't much care for bread. Or potatoes. From time to time I enjoy a dabbling, but for the most part I prefer to abstain.)
Fantasy of EggsSea urchin, Knoll Crest Farms poached egg and Royal Sterling caviarThis fantasy was actually the primary reason that I wanted to get the tasting menu. I was excited to compare it to Jean Georges'
egg caviar, which was in fact superior, but I liked this very much, too. Really, though, I don't remember a thing about any sea urchin.
Heirloom BeetsLiquid sphere with Lynnhaven "Chevre Frais"Oooh, this was a highlight of the meal, let me tell you. These two little globules in two little spoons were clearly made in the same manner as the
olives at El Bulli that Mark Bittman made with Ferran Adria last year and the effect was
absolutely marvelous. The little spheres just pop into a powerful burst of flavor--one of beets, one of fresh goat cheese. The contrasting colors--pure white, deep red--made the presentation all the nicer.
Maine Diver ScallopsCeviche with lobster, Satsuma tangerine and Frantoia olive oilI have quite a taste for ceviche, and the scallop ceviche was not only delicious but sliced into a perfect little half-dollar, reclining in a bath of tangerine juice that I really wanted to slurp up with a tiny straw. I will carry a tiny straw with me in the future for such occasions.
Foie GrasTerrine with golden pineapple, pickled pearl onions and rum-raisin briocheThis was a foie gras-heavy meal. After the foie gras of the hors d'oeuvres, these were Foie Gras Preparations Numbers Two and Three. Because in fact this was a terrine of foie gras and also a little foie gras custard on the side with a pineapple foam. I liked it a lot, and the rum-raisin brioche was phenomenal, but I couldn't finish my foie because, well, the thing is quite rich.
Nova Scotia LobsterPoached with Madras curry, green apple and lemongrassWhoa ho ho. This is some fine lobster right here.
Red SnapperSlow cooked with saffron endive nage and piquillo peppersAt this point in the meal I started to eat two-thirds portions of each course because, well, I was fairly stuffed to the gills. I'm only one person and I had eaten lunch, despite my best intentions to build up an enormous (rather than simply a giant) appetite.
Everglades frog's legsLasagna "forestiere" with vin jaune and nasturtiumI love frog's legs! Everyone says they taste of chicken, but if I ever try chicken I'm sure I'll say it tastes of frog's legs.
Vermont SquabHerb roasted with parsnip and chestnutI was pretty well done in by the time the squab came. I've had it once before, at Jean Georges, and I was a little indifferent toward it. Sunday night I was decidedly apathetic, being already so full and having limited poultry experience under my belt. (Sam has been working more on building up more obscure meats in my repertoire, rather than the more quotidian ones.)
FromageSelection of Artisinal cheesesSurprisingly, the mouth-feel that remains most strongly with me from this meal is not the wonderful beet and chevre spheres, but one of the three cheeses I had. I only really remember that one came from the Willamette Valley, and of course I chose it because I, too, come from the Willamette Valley.
Winter CitrusParfait with tarragon and black olive caramelThis was the better of the desserts, because that tarragon sorbet was something special and the accompanying garnishments were cubed segments of citrus. You don't have to know much about me to know that I'm a sucker for gimmicks and there is nothing quite as gimmicky as a cubed fruit that is usually round.
Essence of ArabicaCrispy cannelloni with coffee, chocolate and milkEvery course came with a detailed explanation, excessively heavy on the proper nouns, but with this course we got simply: "This is the Essence of Arabica." What, praytell, does that mean? Well it turns out it means a wafer-thin crispy cylinder with various fillings and accompanying sorbets.
MignardisesTiny brioche with delicious inside; olive oil gelee; passion fruit tartlet; pistachio financier; chocolate something; I barely touched these charming petit fours because I was desperately overly full.
Perhaps because of the Oscars, perhaps because of the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, perhaps for reasons beyond our understanding, the restaurant was nearly empty when we arrived at 7:00 pm and by the end of our meal at 11:30 pm it was entirely empty. This was quite to our advantage because our sommelier and waitstaff were attentive and patient and wonderful, and they even let me peak into the kitchen after the meal. Of course, by then it was absolutely dead in there, except for a a bit of floor-scrubbing and dish-washing, but it was still nice to take a look around.
It's late on Tuesday now--nearly forty-eight hours after we left--and I'm still feeling a warm sense of satisfaction from the meal and the night.